Suit cuts for dummies (part 2: Tuxedos)

“In a tuxedo, I’m a star. In regular clothes, I’m a nobody” Dean Martin

Dean and Dan’s speciality: the tuxedo, or dinner jacket.

The capsule collection first featured the Holywood and the Beverley Hills cuts, soon to be followed by Tokyo, Seattle, Napoli…versions. Usually single breasted peak lapelled but some models are issued as doubled breasted or with a shawl collar.

Holywood: a black tie variation on the Paris cut, this dinner suit seems to have been abandonned after a year or two, for other styles. It had constructed shoulders and very high pointed lapels (nearly higher than shoulder line, which can look pretty cool). Eventhough described as “easy through the waist”, I found it to be unbearably tight, borderline impossible to fasten even for people, even without any belly fat! Finally, Valerio pants (same as the “Paris” cut for suits).

“Holywood” cut

Beverly Hills: probably the most common tuxedo style; narrow cut and structured shoulders, nip waist, slim fit, with Valerio pants again. Also sold as jacket alone; for instance the classic velvet model has been issued in various colours.

The original 2011
The original 2011 “Beverly Hills” model
And a recent
And a recent “Beverly”. A real classic

The Seattle cut appeared during one season, and indeed it did remind me of the kind of fit you’d see being worn in “Fraser” (lose cut, very American). I doubt it was that much of a commercial success.

“Seattle” cut

Tokyo and Napoli are quite common too thee days: more relaxed with their unstructured shoulders, well suited for warm weather. The Napoli tux is usually double breasted. I am selling a brand new one in size 48 if you’re interested. Pants hem still intact and all.

“Tokyo” cut
“Napoli” cut

London made its entry into the collection as part of the S/S 2016 suits. As with the London regular suit, this tendency to leave the crotch and waist visible could have been even more of a problem here: while wearing a tuxedo one is supposed to hide the waist with either waistcoat or cumerbund. Most people don’t bother anymore, hence this unsightly “inverted white triangle” visible on most men in a black tie event. The later is more or less prominent depending on the cut of the jacket. The London cut Jacket’s rounded edge at the front  botton could therefore be a major problem. Thankfully this seems to be a little counterbalanced by the high waist of the trousers.

London cut
“London” cut

Note the fact that some tuxedos are part of the show items rather than of the capsule/classic collection (see photos below). For instance the “American gigolo” (S/S 2011) collection featured a 1980’s inspired dinner suit, with straight/flared legs. In the Fall/Winter 2012 collection some tuxedos were available (one and three buttons) called “Slim Dean’s night” (I may remember the name wrong), these were extremely fitted, very fashion forward suits, that you would not really wear as “black tie”….unless you are Dean or Dan Caten and you’d get away with it (with wearing anthing really)!

S/S 2011
S/S 2011
F/W 2012
F/W 2012
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