Suit cuts for dummies (part 1: business and leisure)

Before the birth of their classic collection, Dsquared2 made jackets and suits that did not have any specific cut name. Some were fitted, others more boxy. The capsule collection was launched in 2011, and featured a range of suits and tuxedos, named after cities and places like New York, Paris, Milano, London, Toronto (for the suits), Beverly Hills and Hollywood (tuxedos). 

Soon more styles were to follow: cuts like the Tokyo, the Napoli or the Capri and more recently the Miami style, as well as Tuxedos named Seattle or “Dean’s slim night” (if i remember well).

Some of the above styles have disappeared, others were modified, and some are staples.

Some styles were a little “extreme” in their shapes and may not have had the “classic” quality of the collection. The original London style cut featured extremely short jacket and trousers, and while it would have looked great on an X-factor contestant, you would not really imagine a city stockbroker sporting it, unlike the current version. The Hollywood cut tuxedo was a great idea, with very high peak lapels, but it was so fitted at the waist that you either had to pick one that you could never wear buttoned, or else one you could button, but then the shoulders would make it resemble a Klaus Nomi outfit.

Note that the difference between two styles can at times be hard to identify, especially since several styles have been issued in one and two buttons, single and double-breasted, two and three-piece…

Here is a bit of information on a few of the styles for the business/leisure suits:

Milano: slightly constructed shoulders, easy through the waist, 73cm in length (relatively long for Dsquared). Pants are classic slim, which means low waist and fitted crotch, 17.5cm hem. There is a little bit of room at the waist “for the pasta” as the twins say.

Suit Milan
“Milano” cut
Another “Milano” cut. Note the tight crotch

Paris: in my opinion the most balanced cut for a business suit. Constructed shoulder, slim fit, originally “Nipped waist” (very tight buttoning) which may have been made less constricting in recent collections, with “Valerio” pants (easy crotch and larger thigh, 17.5cm hem).

A 2015 “Paris” cut

London:  it looks to me has been “toned down” a little since its creation in 2011.  It was a very high peak lapels, very short jacket and cropped pants suit, but nowadays is a very classic and well balanced design, with the caveat already mentionned in previous post, that the jacket’s curved hem at the front makes the area where shirt is tucked into the pants visible. Not a problem in the three piece version of course.

The original cut of the
The original cut of the “London” suit

A recent summer London suit

Toronto: slightly constructed shoulder, easy through the waist, 75cm length. “Robert pants” with easy crotch and wider thigh, 19cm hem.

“Toronto” cut
New york: this style has not been seen in a few years. It was until recently, their longest jacket. Unstructured shoulder, semi lined, easy fit, with “cool guy” pants (long crotch, tight thighs and tapered, 16.5cm hem).

“New York” cut
Tokyo: unstructured shoulders, semi lined, slim fit, 70cm length, with “Tokyo” pants (a style sold also as pants without a jacket), easy crotch and tappered leg, 16.5cm hem. Quite short as it is designed with the often shorter asian physique in mind (no offense to asian people, I am short myself and the twins are no giants either).

“Tokyo” cut
Napoli: the idea was to create a suit for the warm temperatures of Southern Italy. Distinguished style, lined yet comfortable deconstructed jacket, high buttoning, generous and sharp high lapel and tapered trim pants. Makes a great double breasted suit. A little 1960’s in its single breasted three buttons version.

“Napoli” cut
Capri: a cousin of the previous one, may be a little more casual, thoroughly deconstructed jacket with a high medium lapel.

“Capri” cut
Miami: this relatively recent addition to the collection is a “long” suit. In accordance to its name, it is shaped “for muscles” we learn from the twins.

“Miami” cut

Rome: the last one to be spotted online, seems rare as it’s only been seen on one site. Not the best styling on this photo, which makes it hard to figure out if it is an interesting one or not.

“Rome” suit

Note that some suits are issued as part of the main collection, and therefore they reflect the spirit of it. We’ve seen full body suits, ultra-cropped suits, retro suits…

Personally I am a “Paris” for business and a “Tokyo” for a more casual look. However I am extremely rarely in a suit, having no professional or social need for it. However I can often be spotted sporting a tuxedo jacket on Saturday nights, so the next post will be about these. Stay put.

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