Dsquared2 Spring/Summer 2018, the show

Hawaii is not a state of mind, it’s a state of grace” Paul Theroux

And yet another show wrapped up, second co-ed one (men and women combined) for the Caten brothers.

There was not much in terms of clues given in advance on social media, bar a Hawaiian “tapestry”, featuring surfers, Aloha flowers and the likes, and another post which was a wallpaper of zebras, with a Dsquared2 logo on their ass.

I was thinking that the brand had to add serious extra ingredients to the Hawaii and zebra themes, for fear that summer collections would become repetitive, with surfing and jungle having been well explored in the last few years….And they did, so here is what we can gather from our first analysis.

  • The king pattern is the Aloha flower 🌺 . It is everywhere, from the classic Hawaiian shirt to women’s pants, in tones that sometimes bring us back to the Japanese flower prints of the Mangapunk collection.

  • Rockn’roll is a strong element: leathers with buckles, in particular the recurring “crest of buckles” along the sleeves or the side of the legs; buckles and straps are also on skirts, on scarves, on footwear…And leopard prints, biker hats, chiodo jackets, wife-beaters…are here to complete the rebel look.

  • Scouting: the spirit of Baden-Powell is there, in the beige shirts with patches that we are familiar with since the camping collection, and also in the uniquitous short scout scarves, given a bit of an edge by being exclusively in black, and adorned by the key piece of this season, the silver buckle.

    • Glitz glitz glitz. Classic hawaian shirts or bleached jeans are now shiny thanks to the glittery coating which we had seen on the women’s baggy denim trousers a year ago.

    • Tulle: long dresses, tutus, tops…”Major Victoria” meets #D2gether first edition.

    • The collaboration with K-way is being pursued, and it goes even further in breaking from the classic mould of the French brand. Fancy shorts and jackets are here to prove it.

      • Men’s boots are pointed and loaded with buckles and straps.

      • Headwear. From the aformentionned Hell’s angels cap to a range of military parade inspired pieces, most heads are covered.

        • Some oversized items, mostly men’s tops, including some beautiful leather cardigans adorned with tricolour bands, very appealing to the eye.

          • A couple of sartorial additions towards the end, tuxedo jackets, frilled plastron shirts, pastel suits and pants, note that this year we are talking silk notch lapels, which is unusual at D2.

            Some silhouettes were quintessentially Dsquared2, but interestingly a few were the blending together of relatively new additions to the Caten’s panel of detailing, and thus did not look D2 at all.

            Yes, this is still Dsquared2!

            We must say one thing, we were delighted to see the return of Caroline Trentini, who closed the show with her quasi supra-natural presence. Thank you Caroline for exisiting.


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