“When Madonna thinks you’re cool, the world starts looking” Dan Caten
As you all know, D2 shows have gone co-ed (mens and womens collections together) since the last mens fashion week in Milan. But let’s rewind back a little: Dsquared2 started as a menswear brand. The twins might have designed their own drag outfits in the 90’s before the label was founded, but commercially they designed men’s clothes until the early naughties.
Even when Madonna requested that they provided the outfits for the video of “Don’t tell me”, most pieces were customised men’s clothes.
The Madonna thing might have paved the way for what was to come. And in 2002, nine women specific pieces were shown to the public for the first time, by being included in the menswear show.
This was a small capsule collection but it sold well which was encouraging.Of note is the amazing campaign featuring Naomi Campbell photographed by Steven Klein.However, the brash brothers copperfastened their presence in womenswear the following year, and with a loud, supersonic bang.
The Autumn Winter 2003-2004 show took place in Milan, and their old pal Naomi Campbell was more than happy to help out by doing the show. When her agent showed other agents that she had signed up for the catwalk appearance for just a “small label” fee, the word quickly spread and suddenly all the other girls wanted to do the show.
Our own mock comic strip below tells of what actually happened in relation to the participation of Victoria’s Secret’s angel Karolina Kurkova.
The twins are obviously moved and excited when they describe the atmosphere, the buzz of that show, which in their opinion they will never manage to match. The setting, the music, the audience, the clothes…It was all there. As they say: “it was one of these moments”.
PS: if you want to have an idea of the electricity of the show’s opening, check it out here: Naomi opening D2 show
The “24/7 Star” motto appeared herr first, and has now become a recurring print, present in the Icon collection but also in the current collection on several hats, tops, bags…
In retrospect Dean and Dan say that that with practice they have been getting better and better at womenswear; they find that those of the once-upon-a-time-called “weaker sex” are actually tougher customers, probably because they have been into fashion for much longer, while men are only getting more knowledgeable now. Going co-ed will also allow for the cross-fertilisation with the men’s collection, which can be interesting.
The market has grown exponentially in the following decade, to reach around 40% of the brand’s sales today. The weird thing is…I never see any girl wearing D2 on the street. May be in Italy; I’ll know soon as I am going to spend a few months there…
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