Little house music on the prairie

Do not adorn yourselves outwardly by braiding your hair, and by wearing gold ornaments or fine clothing; rather, let your adornment be the inner self with the lasting beauty of a gentle and quiet spirit, which is very precious in God’s sight.”  Peter 3:3 4


Done and dusted, the mixed gender Dsquared2 show has taken place, apparently delayed by around 45 minutes. Right now Dean and Dan are surely already entertaining their guests to cocktails and bubbly in the cool Milan night (zero degrees Tonight).

It was as much an Autumn show as it was a Winter one. And it felt American; very North American.

It was very Dsquared2 too. Nothing revolutionary for the house, as it followed a clear line of continuity from the women’s collections that started with F/W15-16, which have tended to draw inspiration from deep into the Anglo-American puritan/settlers past. Then, being a men’s/women’s show, some of the distinctive features of Dean’s collections (until now, he was mostly behind the womenswear) in terms of precious detailing, have permeated into the mens line, which was more Dan’s domain until now. We can already see the results of this cross-fertilisation, the idea of which made the twins decide to go co-ed from now on.

Beautiful people on the front row, as you’d expect.

And a simple decor of oak vats.

So what were the key elements seen on the runway? Let’s try and de-construct.

  • Headwear: massive woolen peak hats, the bigger the better. Size matters.

  • Classic layering: always there at D2 shows. Some models wore 4-5 layers plus bandana plus woolen hat. It’s Winter afterall. 

  • “Peeking-out layering”: the white shirt’s hem or sleeves, longer than the over-garment, should peek out and their crisp whiteness be shown with pride. It is even with such a detail on their own outfit that the designers themselves closed the show.

  • Oversized: jumpers, jackets, coats…Contrasted with skinny pants for more effect.

  • Ubiquitous tartan: its presence inspired both by frontier clothing (pioneers of Scots and English descent) as well as by the Grunge look. The latter very obvious in the thick tartan shirts “Seattle-style”, sometimes worn around the waist.

  • “B3” bomber: we did a post on the early flight jacket a while back (here: B3 jacket) After a standard men’s model this season (the womens version was already quite elaborate), it comes back deconstructed and reworked into a couture item.

  • K-way windbreaker. Strangely enough it seems that the brand itself is being acknowledged (look at the chest logo below). Remember the elastic bands to wear the folded item around your waist when you were a kid? They’re back with a bang.

  • “Trompe l’oeuil” jumpers: it looks like a jumper from a distance, in reality it’s just the facade of one, sewn onto a lighter item like a shirt. A bit like these wild-west Saloons with a Parthenon-like facade masking a wooden barn.

  • Flower power: to compensate for the desolation of Winter landscapes, the body cannot wear enough flowers; on the dress, on the jacket, as earrings, on the hat. All that on the same person.

  • “Camo-flowerage”: as seen since Mangapunk, cute little flowers replace the classic military foliage.

  • “Cow-moo-flage”: cow print on jackets. Interesting and relevant to the prairie theme. Although, being Friesian it’s not Pennsylvania Dutch, but Dutch full stop.

  • Prairie dress“: a lot of light flowery dresses made for mid-west virgins.

  • “Puritan dress”: black and stern, yet beautifully adorned. Probably the complement to the above, worn by the mothers of the above, intending to keep their daughters virgins.

  • Preacher men: husband of the above, he works hard on building barns and keeping his flock on the righteous path at Sunday service.

  • Fine leather: D2 is becoming a master maker of finely chiselled supple leather pieces. Not “the Gimp” type, but rather used like it was lace.

  • The “sleeve-style pants hem”: an interesting concept, jeans and pants feature at the bottom a zip and a tab with stud fastening. Allows for regular cut and boot cut approach.

  • Ghillie-brogue boots: a continuation from Mangapunk, we already explained the whole concept on a previous post (Boots). Still there, but decorated with chunky toe guards and bouquets of Swarovzky.

  • Did I say Swarozsky? Oh yes, diamonds are now a man’s best friend!  As Dsquared2 baseball caps are being counterfeit by the millions, it’s going to be a little harder now that they sport Lady Diana’s wedding tiara at the front.


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