“Dynasty” show mixes street, bling and aristocratic.

In the same way as the passing of David Bowie kickstarted the creative process that was to lead to the men’s Spring Summer 2017 collection -which in its finished version ended up conceptually quite remote from the late British singer – the seed for the women’s show seems to have been Joan Collins’s outfits in the 80’s soap opera Dynasty (the hashtag was #d2ynasty).

However, as with the men’s show, if the end product contains elements of its original idea, it is at times at homeopathic doses. See the whole collection here: Show stills

True, the puffy shoulders and the brightly coloured satin of the above dress are key components to the silhouette of the show. English actress Joan Collinsas as evil bitch Alexis Carrington epitomises 80’s glitz and glamour. Most dresses and suits were designed by the late Costume designer Nolan Miller. With a weekly wardrobe budget of $35,000, he made around 3,000 costumes over the course of the series, saying “I never want to see them wearing the same outfit twice“. 

However beside these ingredients, a lot more has been thrown into the pot, which mixes street, bling and aristocratic….in equal measure.

Street: in the acid bleach effect on jackets and ultra baggy jeans which seemed wax coated. In the cropped flares with turn-ups, the tartan print suedehead shirts, the white laces on black boots that were all reminiscent of the Men’s show from last June. In the Mini skirts galore, it is a summer collection let’s not forget.

Bling: in the the ubiquitous leopard and tiger prints, definitely a strong statement, one that is hard to pull off. In the tons of glitz in terms of shining, sparkling decorations. In the big ribbons,the puffy silk on skirts and on the shoulders “a la Dynasty”. In the use of bright pink and green satin. In the overload of accessories from bags to bracelets and earrings.

Aristocratic: in the heraldic and medieval elements such as eagles, lions, crosses, flags, in the quasi-masonic symbols on a necklace and on shoes. And in the Napoleonic wars style officer jackets.

The overall silhouette is the one we have been made familiar with in the last seasons. From the bottom up: attention is drawn to the legs which are either bare or under seriously oversized pants; all very fitted at midriff level, and finally big V shaped shoulders which here uses puffy meringues where epaulettes would have been.

There were some beautifully ornamented pointed shoes as well as high-heeled sandals in the same vein as the current “samurai” ones or the ethnic ones of 2 seasons ago.

Dean and Dan chose a range of quirky models, the type that is much more popular in editorials than in straight guys dirty minds. Lineisy Montero, Ondria Hardin, Tami Williams, Jing Wen, Issa Lish, Marjan Jonkman, Fernanda Li, Romee Strijd, Anna Cleveland, Stella Maxwell, Taylor Hill, Sora Choi…An anecdote: it seems that one of Fernanda Li’s earring fell as she was walking the runway, but she managed to catch it with super human speed and kept on walking as if nothing had happened. https://t.co/LA6gR8qv3D

To counterbalance the avalanche of details and colours, the decor itself was minimalistic, with just a warehouse type brick wall with inscriptions like “Dean and Dan moving storage”, which again, shows how far we are from the world of Colorado oil tycoons.

My personal opinion is that it consolidates Dsquared2 as a high-end brand of womenswear capable of much more than logo t-shirts and baseball caps; that this collection contains amazing individual pieces, which to me – at least in real life – should be worn sparingly rather than combined together as on the Milan catwalk.

After the finale, as per tradition, the Caten brothers walked the runway to wrap up the show, smiling and relatively simply dressed in Tokyo shawl collar tuxedo jacket, white shirt, Clement jeans and Pierre boots.


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