A couple of months ago I posted “I wish I was woman” on this site.
In short I was praising the recent Dsquared2 women’s collection, and the title was a way of expressing that I was starting to be jaleous of such heights reached for collections I will never wear, no matter how well accepted gender affirmation is these days.
On Monday, the Autumn-Winter 2016-2017 women’s show took place in Milan.
The hashtag was known prior to the event, “majorvictoria” (also seen: “MajorVictorian”) was to be the central theme.
Well, they’ve done it again. And it is the third time in a row that we have a really well put together collection, very sophisticated, very feminine, aristocratic without being stern. Wonderful silhouettes, flattering lines, incredible attention to detail, intelligent and not overpowering layering, noble fabrics, colours and Victorian black…it was all there.
Dean and Dan really seem to have found a style in the last few collections. Many elements of this one seem to be variations on themes from a year ago, in particular the sandals, the cargo pants, the felt or tweed jackets, the use of fur, of indigenous dress…A wink even at the men’s collection with the half-kilt seen a few weeks ago in “Mangapunk”.
What was particular to this show whoever were the Victorian details like beads and lace, black velvet, tulle, caplets, and long black skirts and dresses (the latter ones bordering on the “goth” look).
Now it has to be said: these clothes are not for every woman. They are designed for a very fitted silhouette, and they may lose their classy edge and fall into the comical on the wrong body. Men’s collections are often the same actually. Dean and Dan have really slim people in mind when they design their clothes. You’ll decided for yourselves whether that is a good thing or not.
All in all, I am in awe of the twins for what they have achieved, being originally designers of men’s clothes. In the process they seem to actually becoming better at women’s lines than at men’s, at least more consistent! Thankfully the recent men’s collection was very strong so I will postpone the gender reassignment surgery for the time being.
For being able to wear D2 womenswear, Catlyn Jenner is a lucky woman though…