The Dsquared2 ‘Mangapunk’ collection (AW16-17) draws from a variety of themes, including Highland dress.
A pair of boots that featured on 18 of the models on the runway is described by the brand as “Chunky bagpiper influenced boots with trekking lacing”. In pre-sale they were called “Bungy boots”, probably due to the interlaced cord similar to the multicoloured ones seen on the “bungy jump sneakers” of the current collection.
Now, an close look at the boot shows us that these are in fact Ghillie Brogue boots, a blend of two classic shoe models, the Brogue and the Ghillie, made into a boot (note that bagpipers in proper Highland dress do not wear boots).
The Brogue takes its name from old Irish bróg (shoe), which itself from the old Norse brók (“leg covering”) and is characterised by the perforations and cutting pattern along the edges of its component pieces. There is a “country” feel to them which places them on the casual end of the formalwear etiquette spectrum.
Ghillies typically are pumps worn by dancers in Scotland and Ireland, which are usually made of supple leatther and have no tongue, the criss-crossed laces clearly visible against the skin or socks.
When the two models are combined this gives us the Ghillie Brogue, which are part of the Highland pipers outfit and seems to have been Dean and Dan’s inspiration.
The D2 model does features a tongue though, and a heavy rubber outsole. The originality of the design is that the Brogue seems to be wrapped inside the Ghillie, and the sharp edges as well as the near patent leather provide the “manga” feel of the collection. A bit too casual may be to wear on a night out with classic Dsquared combos like Jeans and Tuxedo jackets, but perfect for mix and match with the casualwear seen on the runway (bomber jackets, kilts, silver coat…).
Will I buy them? The jury is still out, but I might get tempted….