The idea for this post about the Dsquared2 ‘London cut’ jacket dates back to a while ago, but I had shelved it for not being interesting enough, or for being too technical; that’s until the recent ‘Mangapunk’ show, my favourite piece being a two button Tuxedo jacket, which I since discovered – as it is now available in pre-order – happens to be a London cut.
I need to stress out first that it is the ‘London’ jacket that has been produced in the last two years, as the earlier 2011 version was very different (extremely short jacket, peak lapels, sometimes 3 buttons, sold as a suit with cropped ‘carrot-shape’ trousers).
The starting point for my discussion is best illustrated by an excerpt from ‘The Black Tie Guide‘, a site that I have followed nearly since its beginnings, and which I consider – and is considered by many – as one of the ultimate authorities on black tie etiquette. A big hello to Peter by the way, whom I have had the pleasure to correspond with a few years ago, should he ever read these lines.
‘Dressing the Waist: ….the role of the formal waistcoat or cummerbund is misconstrued by many today ….In actual fact these garments play an important part in formal wear’s refined minimalism by helping to conceal its working parts. Just as dress studs replace common shirt buttons and silk stripes cover trouser seams, a formal waist covering discreetly hides the trouser’s exposed waistband and the shirt bosom’s bottom edge.’ (underlining by Canadiantuxedoblog).
However, and regrettably, I think that we can nearly consider waistcoats and cummerbund things of the past. Invariably these days we see Hollywood celebrities walking the red carpet in what would otherwise be a great outfit, yet with a unsightly triangle of white shirt visible below the jacket’s buttoning.
To a certain extent, this can be minimised by keeping the jacket buttoned, Daniel Craig as 007 in Casino Royale being a great example of a Tuxedo worn tastefully without any waist covering.
However the problem I intend to highlight with this post is the cut of the Dsquared2 ‘London’ style jacket (blazers, work suits or tuxedos): the front panels are cut so that their edge does not fall horizontally until past belt level, but instead split diagonally away from eachother, letting crotch, pants buttoning, and bottom of shirt widely exposed to view. Here are a couple of examples.
This detail may go unnoticed to the untrained eye, but personally I find it as shocking as sleeves without cuffs (great example above of this on the right handside by the way!).
Now, even if we accept this trend for work or for an afternoon in town…I still find it hard to bear when it comes to eveningwear. Look at the waist on the example below (D2 SS16), where there is nearly a sense of disproportion…or of the wearer losing his pants.
The above two button, wool and silk dinner jacket is actually very similar to the one I fell in love with in the Dsquared2 AW16-17 men’s show.
The fact that on the runway it was worn open and with a denim waiscoat underneath masked the actual cut. However it is now confirmed that it is a London cut, with a quirky detail in this zipped chest pocket. Here it is (available for pre-order on the official D2 site).
So after all that talk, what will I do next season? Well I guess I will still go for it, and purchase the ‘Chinese waiscoat’ as well to minimise the impact of what I have described above. Here is the waistcoat in question.
I won’t be far off the runway total look…but I am not sure I will adopt the kilt, no matter how cool it looks, as I really don’t think the world is ready for it, outside the tiny worlds of designers…and obviously north of Hadrian’s wall, where incidentally I spent the happiest years of my life, often busking playing the bagpipes…and wearing a kilt of course! (true fact, but this is another story which does not belong here).