That’s it folks, after much anticipation and very little leaked beforehand, the Dsquared2 AW17-17 men’s show took place this morning.
So what was it about? Remember that the hashtag was “Mangapunk”, which seems to be pretty straightforward: Tokyo meets King’s road 1977.
Well, expecting Japanese fans must have had a collective heart attack when the first model came out wearing a shirt that was clearly of Chinese influence (‘Tangzhuang’ style). In an interview Dean and Dan said the collection was ‘a tribute to Asia’, and that they ‘mishmashed’ various influences. Enough to piss-off a few proud nations who hate being assimilated to others (like, Portugal? Ah yes I know, tequila and bullfighting!), however it won’t be the first time Dean and Dan’s enthusiasm causes controversy. This one will probably go under the radar though.
The general tone was a lot of black, brightened here and there by a bit of white, some blue denim, or again some fluorescent prints.
The Asian influence could be perceived in the buttoning of some shirts as described above and also in the use of silky black or cherry red fabrics for trousers and jackets adorned by colourful prints of Japanese cultural elements (mangas, cherry tree flowers, geishas…) and writings in a language that for what I know could be any asian idoma but which I assume was Japanese.
Incidentally I’d be curious to know the meaning of these incomprehensible words for most of us Europeans. Even in the English language the twins are not exactly bridled when it comes to prints on their clothes (‘Motherfucker’, ‘Fucking freezing”…).
Coats and outerwear tended to be oversized, using silver fabric, almost science fiction like. The ‘manga’ thing was obvious there. White shirts were there in force but sometimes replaced by black polo necks.
There was a Scottish vibe too: some tartan (‘Black Watch’), some kilts worn with highland socks…
And when Japan meets Scotland you have those hybrid pieces, part kilt, part kendo sworsdman’s outfit; definitely something Samurai-esque about some lower body items.
In the previous collection Dean and Dan were wearing g-strings around their waist, on top of their trousers…they went one step further by wearing the skirt now. Note that some of these skirts are detachable, and some only cover half or ¾ of the circumference of the wearer, which lets the front of the trousers or shorts worn underneath be clearly seen. This is a very interesting concept as the full fledged skirt or kilt never really took off in menswear (at least here in the West); however these types are much more subtle, just adding a layer around a portion of the trousers. There are precedents in the world of fashion, notably Jean-Paul Gaultier’s 2013 men’s collectin. I hope this catches on, as it is edgy and in my opinion can even be classy too (just look at Dean and Dan at the end of the show, in a contemporary suit that features such an ornament).
The punk bit was in the trousers ornemented with zips, in the big boots worn by half the models, and in the inclusion of a touch of bondage gear (remember that the punk look was born when Malcolm McLaren and Vivienne Westwood mixed Teddy boys outfits with S&M stuff). Some silhouettes were actually more skinhead than punk in their general overall shape, with boots, cropped trousers and bomber jackets.
My favourite pieces: the long silver pea coat, the black watch kilt worn with a tuxedo jacket (this one has a zipped breast pocket and a denim insert with Chinese buttoning), the boots, the black 3/4 length trousers….and the sequined dinner jacket below.
My fashion nightmare: the pointy white shoes worn with ¾ lenght trousers and silk hose!
So overall, I found it a very strong collection. I will obsess over it for a while. The twins say themselves that they are stronger at winter collections (due to them growing up in ‘fucking freezing’ cold Canada). This season to me is in the same family as ‘fighter’, ‘skihead’, ‘Hockey horror Dsquared show’, ‘pioneers’, ‘club society’, ‘asylum’…
I would not be surprised if the pre-collection as well as the non-show pieces were great too. I was not mind blown by the current SS15 collection so this is something to look forward to.
I also know that the silver coat and the sequined jacket will oblige me to break a bank!